Perhaps not wearable in towns or smaller cities, the Gareth Pugh collection was made from threads of a dream I had where amazing clothes could be worn by both men and women. My dream meshes with Mr. Pugh’s vision on the runway of his fall 2011 collection. I generally don’t like unisex shows but this one grabbed me by the lapels and ordered me to love it. And so, I do.
Men in silk pants that are so airy you may think they are flowing skirts at first. So feminine until you reached the top which was a strong, structured silhouette with sturdy shoulders and slim arms raised high upon high cut arm holes. It was heavenly, or maybe it was the way the zippers we sewn on the front that was reminiscent of the crosses I used to look at from the pews. Either way I was on my knees with this collection.
Lines so straight they made you think these pieces were made 100% by a machine because no one can sew that well. Sexy male models donning gloves made from sleek, strips of leather or just a dash of nail polish were wearing leather jackets that bended your perception of what men are allowed to wear. Hemlines on jackets weren’t straight cut or asymmetrical rather high on the sides and pointed down low in the front. With a piece that flapped over the front and no zipper in sight, I wondered how would this model get out of this jacket? But then I thought… in a jacket that looks that good, why get out of it?
Even the back of the jackets were made with the utmost in detail. A specific longer coat that went to the knee, wrapped across the body and then flapped down in the front, had the most detailed back which was triangular panels that alternated shiny leather, then smooth matte wool. This was a theme that carried through even into the fur pieces.
In the lining of a leather jacket alternated in strips of longer and a shorter fur a deep black untamed forest of fur grew and created single handedly the best fur piece I have seen all year, and it could have been faux. It looked so great against the neoprene looking, fitted jacket underneath that was once again paired with those great silk pants that are so sexy they must only be legal in 30 States MAX!
Once again (concerning that SUPER sleek tailoring) Gareth Pugh uses strong material that is thick and seemingly easy to cut into any shape. What he has done with that material is map the body into small geometric blocks and sewn them together into an atlas that became this inspired coat that I am most likely going to be taking home this Fall 2011. Some of the styles were so tight to the body they could have been called a corset. A thick smooth leather and wool corset that was very masculine yet revealed enough shape that any girl would want to tighten her grip on her man as a Gareth Pugh creation walked by.
The gold zippers against the black was pretty much the only color in the collection next to the smalt blue that was used in Gareth’s fashion show. Color in one of Gareth’s show!? I know that’s what I said! Actually it is a good thing for him to branch out in terms of color and blue goes so well with black so why not? The single buttoned jacket in blue with the hidden button was longer than a typical mens look but was collarless so it wasn’t a standard men’s piece to begin with.
Then came the gold. Mirrored gold that looked like a disco ball hammered into flat material that was then cut into the awesome pieces of this fall winter 2011 2012 collection. The men’s piece that was made from this gold fabric was… a little theatrical. Now I’m all about theatrics but the only time that outfit would go over well is when there were four men wearing them and they were carrying me in my egg. What? I was born that way!
But seriously I loved this collection (if you couldn’t tell) and I think it will do rad in the stores due to the cult following.