With Molten Bronze, Schiaparelli Took Charge of the Fall 2014 Couture Shows
Head designer Marco Zanini washed off the crumbs that were leftover from his humble pie and replaced it will a hearty, ballsy soup! The broth of which is enough to make even the most amazonian warriors, or fashion week attendees think twice. Zanini paid homage to one of fashion’s and (more importantly) couture’s founding mothers, who shaped and molded the scene nearly a century ago. Today, Marco’s collection showed no question of direction, vision, or duplicity. A rebirth of Schiaparelli daring and eccentric roots honed for the modern catwalk.
The 24 looks each had an edge. They were unapologetic and daring enough to be roped off for reserved guests. Those who had previously signed a waiver and checked off the no prior heart conditions box. His line was like a roller-coaster, a veritable fashion week Space Mountain where a megalithic mountain was hollowed out and the inside was painted magenta to showcase splashes of fur and croc, which were flashed with purpose to inspire, then vanish only to be purchased after the show.
Not unlike those contorted photos of theme park riders in their peak of overwhelming exhilaration. Couture is a roller-coaster, and this seasons, Shiaparelli controls the speed at which you ride.
What overcame me most, was the simple almost, smirk-able attributes of the collection. A squirrel printed gown, small rat like tufts of fur placed strategically around the train of another and the letters “E” “S” in decorative blue sequin and glass beads placed on the shoulder of a pink mohair full length coat. Just awesome.
All the decorative headpieces were from -none other than- milliner Stephen Jones (his hats have become articles of fashion legend). Speaking of Jones, it’s staggering how well he’s reputed in the industry. He’s not only infamous for his creative process, but has the reputation of being a great guy to work with… how often does that happen? The man is worth his weight in gold. The number of recent collaboration is testament enough, from his longstanding relationship with Comme des Garcons and John Galliano, to his recent work with Thom Browne, Marc Jacobs (for his own line) and his last Louis Vuitton collection, Raf Simons for Christian Dior and the Walter Van Beirendonck Fall 2014 menswear collection… to name a few. *See, you can’t even list them all without creating a run-on sentence*
Altogether the line was a smashing success and made me smile. As if I was looking at images of Anna Piaggi every second for a few minutes. Grinning from ear to ear.